How to Install and Remove Track Spikes Without Stripping Threads

Nothing derails race day preparation faster than a stripped spike hole. You go to swap in fresh pins before a big meet, and suddenly the wrench just spins—no grip, no purchase, nothing. The spike won't come out, or worse, won't go in properly. Your shoes are effectively ruined.

I've seen this happen to athletes at every level, from first-year high schoolers to collegiate competitors. The frustrating part? It's almost always preventable. Stripped threads result from a handful of common mistakes that are easy to avoid once you know what causes them.

This guide covers the proper techniques for installing and removing track spikes, how to prevent thread damage, and what to do if you're already dealing with a stuck or stripped spike. Follow these steps, and your spike plates will last as long as your shoes do.

Tools You'll Need

How to Install New Spikes Correctly

Proper installation is the best prevention against future problems. Taking an extra 30 seconds per spike now saves hours of frustration later.

Step-by-Step Installation

• 1Clean the spike holes. Use a clean cloth or old toothbrush to remove any dirt, debris, or old lubricant from the spike holes. Grit in the threads is a primary cause of cross-threading and premature wear. If you're installing spikes in brand new shoes, check for any manufacturing residue or glue in the holes.
• 2Apply lubricant to the spike threads. Put a thin coat of Vaseline or light oil on the threads of each spike before installation. This serves two purposes: it makes installation smoother (reducing the chance of cross-threading) and makes future removal much easier. Some athletes skip this step—don't be one of them.
• 3Start by hand, not with the wrench. This is the most important step for preventing stripped threads. Hold the spike between your fingers and turn it clockwise into the hole. You should feel the threads engage smoothly. If there's resistance or it feels "crunchy," stop immediately—you're likely cross-threading.
• 4Thread in at least 2-3 full rotations by hand. The spike should turn smoothly with just finger pressure for the first several rotations. If it doesn't, back it out and try again. Never force a spike that isn't threading cleanly.
• 5Finish with the wrench—but don't overtighten. Once the spike is hand-threaded, use the spike wrench to tighten it the rest of the way. Stop when you feel firm resistance. The spike should be snug, not cranked down with maximum force. Overtightening damages threads and makes removal difficult.
• 6Verify the spike sits flush. A properly installed spike should sit flat against the spike plate with no gap. If it's angled or raised, back it out and reinstall—something went wrong during threading.

How to Remove Spikes Without Damage

Removal seems straightforward—turn counterclockwise until the spike comes out. But there are several ways this simple process goes wrong.

Step-by-Step Removal

• 1Clean around the spike base. Dirt and debris packed around the spike base add friction and make removal harder. A quick wipe or brush clears the way.
• 2Ensure the wrench is fully seated. The spike wrench should fit completely over or into the spike head. A partially-engaged wrench will slip, rounding off the spike head and making future removal much harder.
• 3Apply steady, controlled pressure. Turn counterclockwise with consistent force. Jerky or excessive force can strip the spike head or damage threads. If the spike doesn't move, don't immediately apply more force—try a different approach (see stuck spike section below).
• 4Once loosened, finish by hand. As soon as the spike breaks free and starts turning easily, switch from the wrench to your fingers. This reduces wear on both the spike and the threads.
• 5Clean the hole before installing a replacement. With the spike removed, clean out any debris or old lubricant from the threads. Inspect for any visible damage before installing a new spike.

Preventing Thread Damage: The Maintenance Routine

Most thread damage is cumulative—small amounts of wear that add up over time until the threads finally fail. A simple maintenance routine prevents this progression.

Remove and Reinstall Every Few Weeks

Even if you're not changing spike lengths, unscrew and reinstall your spikes every 2-3 weeks during the season. This prevents rust from forming between the spike and the plate, which is a primary cause of seized spikes. Each time you do this, you're also checking that the threads are still in good condition.

Never Leave Holes Empty

Empty spike holes collect dirt, moisture, and debris that damage threads. If you're removing spikes for any reason—training on a gym floor, traveling, switching to different lengths—install blank plugs in the holes. Blanks protect the threads and prevent contamination.

Keep Spikes Dry

After running in wet conditions, dry your shoes thoroughly before storing them. Moisture trapped between spikes and spike plates causes rust, which bonds the spike to the plate over time. Remove the spikes, wipe everything dry, apply fresh lubricant, and reinstall.

Don't Let Spikes Wear Too Short

Once a spike wears down to a stub, the wrench can no longer grip it effectively. This leads to slipping, rounded spike heads, and eventually a spike you can't remove at all. Replace spikes when they're visibly worn—don't wait until they're completely flat. Fresh replacement spikes are cheap insurance against much bigger problems.

Dealing with Stuck Spikes

Despite your best efforts, you may encounter a spike that won't budge. Don't panic—and don't immediately reach for maximum force. Escalate your approach gradually.

Level 1: Penetrating Oil

Spray WD-40 or a similar penetrating oil around the base of the stuck spike. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes to seep into the threads. The oil breaks down rust and debris that may be binding the spike. After waiting, try the wrench again with steady pressure—many stuck spikes release after this treatment.

Level 2: Locking Pliers (Vise-Grips)

If the wrench isn't working, locking pliers are your best friend. Adjust the jaws to grip the spike body tightly—you want the pliers locked on firmly enough that they won't slip. The extra leverage and grip of locking pliers can break free spikes that defeat a standard wrench.

Grip the spike on any flat surfaces available. Most pyramid spikes have flat sides that provide good purchase for pliers. Turn counterclockwise with steady pressure.

Level 3: Create a Grip Surface

If the spike is so worn that nothing can grip it, use a metal file to create two flat surfaces on opposite sides of the spike. File until you have enough flat area for locking pliers to grip without slipping. Then proceed with the locking pliers method.

Level 4: Cut a Slot (Last Resort)

For severely stripped spikes where nothing else works, use a Dremel tool or hacksaw to cut a slot across the top of the spike, creating a screwdriver slot. Then use a flathead screwdriver to turn the spike out. This is destructive to the spike but preserves the threads in your shoe.

Dealing with Stripped Threads

If threads in the spike plate are already damaged, your options depend on severity.

Minor Damage

If spikes still thread in but feel loose or "wobbly," the threads are partially stripped. You can often still use the hole by:

• Applying extra lubricant (which can help fill minor gaps)
• Using slightly longer spikes that engage more thread depth
• Tightening carefully and checking frequently for loosening during use

Monitor damaged holes closely. A spike that comes loose during competition is a safety hazard.

Severe Damage

If a spike won't thread in at all, or spins freely without tightening, that hole is likely unusable. Your options are limited:

• Skip the hole: Depending on location, you may be able to compete with one fewer spike. This is most viable for distance spikes with 4-6 holes; less so for sprint spikes that need maximum grip.
• Professional repair: Some shoe repair specialists can re-tap threads or install thread inserts. This is rarely cost-effective unless the shoes are high-end and relatively new.
• Replace the shoes: For severe damage to multiple holes, replacement is often the most practical solution.

Common Mistakes That Cause Thread Damage

Cross-Threading

The #1 cause of stripped threads. This happens when the spike enters at an angle rather than straight, causing the threads to cut across each other rather than mesh properly. Prevention: always start spikes by hand to feel for proper alignment before using a wrench.

Overtightening

Cranking spikes down with maximum force stresses threads and makes removal difficult. Spikes only need to be snug—firm enough they won't loosen during running. If you're using significant force with the wrench during installation, you're overtightening.

Forcing Resistant Spikes

When a spike doesn't thread smoothly, forcing it with the wrench damages threads instantly. If there's resistance during hand-threading, stop, back out, and realign. Never use the wrench to push through resistance.

Using Wrong or Worn Tools

A spike wrench that doesn't fit properly will slip and round off spike heads. Worn wrenches lose their grip. Replace cheap plastic wrenches with steel versions, and replace any wrench that's showing wear.

Ignoring Dirty or Rusty Conditions

Dirt in threads acts like sandpaper, wearing them down with each installation and removal. Rust bonds spikes to plates. Regular cleaning and lubrication prevents both problems.

Frequently Asked Questions

How tight should track spikes be?

Snug, but not cranked. Tighten until you feel firm resistance, then stop. The spike should sit flush against the plate without any gap. If you're using significant hand or arm strength with the wrench, you're overtightening. Properly tightened spikes won't loosen during normal running.

Can I use any lubricant on spike threads?

Vaseline (petroleum jelly) and light machine oils like WD-40 both work well. Avoid heavy greases that can attract dirt. Some athletes use a tiny amount of anti-seize compound, which is excellent for preventing rust but can be messy. Whatever you use, apply it sparingly—a thin coating is all you need.

How often should I replace my spikes?

Replace spikes when they show visible wear—typically every 3-6 months with regular use, or before major competitions. Don't wait until they're worn flat, as extremely short spikes are hard to remove and provide inadequate traction. Check out our 5mm and 7mm Omni-Lite spikes for quality replacements.

What if my brand new shoes have a blocked spike hole?

Some shoes have manufacturing residue or glue in spike holes. Try gently threading a spike in by hand to clear the obstruction. If there's hard debris, use a small pick or needle to carefully remove it before installing spikes. Contact the manufacturer if a hole appears defective.

Can stripped spike holes be repaired?

Minor damage can sometimes be managed by using longer spikes that engage more thread depth, but severely stripped holes are generally not repairable in a cost-effective way. Prevention through proper technique is far better than attempting repairs after the fact.

Will track spike threads fit any brand of shoes?

Yes. Track spike threads are universal across manufacturers—the same Omni-Lite spikes will fit Nike, Adidas, New Balance, Puma, Saucony, Brooks, and virtually any other spike shoe on the market.